Where The Streets Have No Name

Ladakh Chronicles, part 7 – Monasteries

April 5th, 2009

An abode of peace, monks and ancient haritage

13^th July
We woke up to a beautiful morning, as weather had returned to a normal state. Though there were quite few rain clouds in sight, sky was mostly clear, sunny and there was a familiar warmth in the air. This was a beautiful day… and we were going to visit some beautiful places. Plan was to leave early and visit three major monasteries around Leh, return back by late afternoon; so everyone can visit Leh market for shopping as the girls were leaving the next day.

Prateek had to finish some work, and make arrangements for travelling back to Mumbai as some urgent matter required him back home. He wasn’t going to join us for Tso moriri camp as previously decided. In fact, many plans were made and changed in last 24 hours. Earlier, Nupoor and Neerja weren’t booked for Tso-moriri and Rafting trips. After some brainwashing from us Neerja decided to extend her trip for Tso-moriri and Rafting; Nupoor couldn’t do so as she had to resume back on work. So Neerja canceled her tickets and re-booked accordingly. But afterwards again changed her plans as she had to return home due to family reasons. Prateek declared that he wouldn’t be accompanying us as he had to return to Mumbai as some urgent matter required his presence. Neerja couldn’t get booking for next morning’s flight, so she decided to leave by road in night with Prateek and catch relevant flight from Delhi next evening while Nupoor was leaving early in the morning. Had to say we all were bit disappointed, as in one night our group was getting reduced to half. Well, to look at it practically… not much was changed on paper (except Prateek, whose departure came unexpected), as this was how it was going to be previously. But then we all had so much fun in past few days, it did seem like a big change happening. When you warm up to certain group, changes like these do make impact on one’s experience.

Hemis Gompa
So amidst all these plans and changes we left for our first destination, Hemis Gompa. Situated in midst of rocky cliffs of narrowing valley, Hemis is rather a secluded monastery. Despite the remote location, Hemis Gompa is one of the famous monastery among tourists, thanks to its famous summer dance festival called Tsechu. Call it our luck or whatever, but it happened to be the last day of this festival. We weren’t aware of exact dates of festival, so it was a pleasant surprise. Hemis was already crowded with tourists and locals, all coming to attend the festival. There were monks all around, both seniors and novices alike. Usually you’ll find monasteries to be peaceful places but thanks to festival day, this place had come to life. As we entered the courtyard, we could see the main area being prepared with rangoli designs. This is where masked dancers would perform. A temporary barricade was erected to keep the area from flooding with spectators. There were some photographers and videographers, already settling down inside the ring; first floor and terrace of buildings surrounding courtyard were also heavily populated with tourists and shutterbugs. We decided to quickly visit the congregation hall, the Dukhang (or Dukhang Chenmo as it is properly called). As you enter in, you are instantly amazed by the vastness of this chamber from inside. Not only it is broad, it is also huge vertically… with many wooden columns holding its roof. Four central pillars support the clerestory, well above roof. This section is primary source of light in this huge chamber. Though the light coming from there is mostly inadequate for room of this size, on a sunny day around mid-noon it creates an amazing effect. Lucky for me, I was there in right time to witness it. The chamber was full with monks having their meal and tourists shooting videos and photos. As using flash was not allowed in many of the places, I had quickly adapted to this silent code of conduct even in places where there was no written warning. As I was carrying my tripod I wasn’t very much bothered with flash anyway, and the light falling from roof was causing very dramatic effect. I hate flash most of the time as it ruins natural light effect most of the time… and it just feels kind of rude to use flash in places such as this one. As tradition goes however, there has to be some odd idiots in the lot. Some tourists were using flash as if they are shooting some inanimate objects in museum. I hate when some people act ignorant all the time, as if it’s their birthright to be certified idiots.

Leaving the chamber, we returned to the main courtyard. I quickly secured a place inside the ring, and set video camera on tripod. Courtyard was now even more crowded with more and more people coming in for the festival. As me & Maggi waited for the dance to begin, I couldn’t resist myself to clicking the diverse audience around me. Apart from the local people and monks, there were quite a few distinctive characters from around the world. The audience was as diverse as colorful dresses on the dancers would be. For few minutes the weather scared us with light drizzle. Fortunately, it didn’t rain past occasional spray and soon enough the first dancer arrived at the scene. As he started his act, another group of dancers with different masks and outfits joined him. Although I didn’t get much gist of an exact story behind the act; their mystical moves and play of color was good enough to please the photographer in me. We decided to leave after the first act was over, but I managed to stall everyone so that I could at least get couple of snaps of second act.

Jaimin, Nupoor and Neerja were already waiting for us in parking lot. The sky was crowded with thick layers of cloud, creating a very dramatic atmosphere. A large group of cloud had covered mountains on the northern side; we could see the glimpse of fresh snow now on some remote peaks. Many people were still coming in for festival as we left for our next destination, Thikse Gompa.

Thikse Gompa
Undoubtedly, one of the most beautiful monastery in entire Ladakh region, Thikse makes a mark on your mind as soon as you lay your eyes on it. As we drove nearer the view of this beautiful structure against the background of dramatic sky took over our mind. Entire establishment of Thikse gompa is situated on hill top so organically and naturally, as if god himself has carefully placed everything together. Main temples are situated on top, while lower slopes of hill are spawned with monk’s quarters. The drive from the main road to entrance gate give your sort of 180° view of gompa. You have to be really bad at photography, to be able to take any intentional bad shots of this place. This is, without any doubt, THE MOST picturesque structure I’ve came across in my Ladakh trip.

As you stand in from the beautifully crafted gate, you are instantly mesmerized by detailed woodwork and metalwork designs. I continued my walk in certain mystical trance, as this place was a treat to the photographer in me. Jaimin seemed more interested in chasing and videographing some puppy dog, while Neerja and Nupoor were all over the lilies and other flowers in garden. As soon as we reached the main courtyard we realized that unintentionally, we had made a wise decision to leave early from Hemis. Thanks to the festival, most of the tourists had flocked to Hemis, giving us near empty Thikse for a peaceful exploration.

We first entered the main prayer chamber, which was absolutely empty except a senior monk sitting in one corner, engrossed in his reading. The quiet and peaceful atmosphere instantly filled my heart with a blissful feeling. I sat down in one corner, observing the room. Thanks to large windows the room was very well lit, giving certain richness to already vivid colors. The designs on wood columns were extremely detailed and beautiful. At the far end of the room, beautiful sculptures of various deities and monks were placed behind glass enclosures, around a smaller version of Maitreya Buddha statue. Before leaving from prayer hall, I quietly asked permission of senior monk for a photograph, which he granted with a pleasant smile.

As we entered Chamkhang, a very young monk welcomed us with warm greetings. As soon as you enter, a gigantic sculpture of Maitreya Buddha grabs your attention. This statue, without any argument is THE most beautiful work of sculpture of Buddha in entire Ladakh. Chamkhang chamber is divided in two levels, of which only upper level is open for tourists most of the time. Standing at upper level Maitreya Buddha is visible from chest up. Looking down from edges you can view the entire status of Buddha sitting cross legged in lotus position. The 40ft tall statue is made from clay and painted in gold, dominates the chamber and your viewing senses. The head crowned with a five-leafed coronet is encrusted with jewels and five Dhayni Buddhas. The radiant face with half-closed eyes and benevolent expression instantly brings a peace to viewer’s mind.

The Gonkhang was an entirely different experience than previous two chambers. Located in central building, it is the temple of protector deities. Contrasting to bright interior of prayer hall and Chamkhang, it was dark and rather spooky. A large image of Yamantaka, a terminator of death was presiding at one end with weird and macabre paintings on the wall. The nine headed sculpture of Yamantaka was truly a piece of complexity with 34 hands spawning on both sides; the entire statue stands on 16 legs.

Dukhang, the congregation chamber was similar to one we visited at Hemis but smaller in dimensions. The primary source of the light was the entrance door. Similar to Hemis, four large pillars supported the clerestory on roof. A large picture of Dalai Lama was installed on throne under the canopy. Behind this altar is the door leading to real chapel. On the right of this door, are three fierce yab-yum sculptures. The rear chapel is small dark room with similar spooky interior as Gonkhang, housing beautiful gilded statue of Sakyamuni Buddha, Maitreya, Guru Rimpoche and Tsongkhapa.

As we got back on road, we noticed the time and instantly hunger took over everything else in our mind. Amjad suggested a nice little restaurant he knew near Shey palace, where we were headed. When we reached there, we weren’t sure how good the food would be… as the restaurant appeared to be run-of-a-mill affair. But as there was no other restaurant nearby and we were too hungry to spend any more time on searching other options; we decided to try it anyway. Jaimin decided not to experiment and stick to good ol’ fried rice. Rest of us were feeling adventurous… so Maggi, Nups and Neerja decided to try Veg. Thukpa, while I called for Egg Chowmen. Surprisingly, the food was really delicious. We decided to make short affair of Shey palace tour, as after visiting Thikse, it looked rather pale in comparison… and girls were keener on returning to Leh, for their shopping plans. Seriously, girls!!

Shey Palace
As we climbed up the beaten path of Shey Palace, we got more clearer view of its ancient architecture. Even though the time has taken its toll on this very old architecture, Shey Palace has its own beauty in its frayed structure. Like an old face carrying its wrinkles, defining the character of the person. It certainly had some resemblance to the old people of Ladakh, with their distinct wrinkles. For some reason, Shey Palace didn’t intrigue me in its dark (and somewhat tattered) interior. This was much more intriguing from outside. It was like a beautiful yet disappointing mystery, which is not meant to be known. The fun is being curious, not seeking it.

I walked through empty passages, the chambers and dukhang… but I was able to forget it as soon as I was through the passage or out of the chamber. It really didn’t capture me. I was out in the open, sooner than I could imagine. I came out and I found what I was really looking for in this place… or rather it would appropriate to say, what I was really looking for was out of this place. For once, the inner beauty didn’t matter… and best here really was from the outside.

I’m sorry for those who wanted to know bit more about Shey Palace and its shadowy chambers; I have nothing to write here. As I chose to wipe it off of my mind, and remember what mattered more to me there.

Soma Gompa
We were back at guesthouse around 5:00pm. Nupoor and Neerja left with Prateek, as they had to hit cybercafé to check with their travel arrangements. I decided to tag along with Maggi and Jaimin as both had shopping list to accomplish. After hitting couple of places and shops, I was bored quickly; shopping never was a leisure activity for me. So as both of them were checking out stuff in some clothing shop, I decided to hang out in the streets and engage in some shutterbug activities. I noticed a temple across the street, hidden behind the rows of shops.

As I walked down the stairs of the main entrance, I was suddenly standing in front of a beautiful temple. Although it wasn’t anything as big as monasteries we had visited earlier today, it was still rather big than any local temple. The place seemed rather busy, with locals walking in and out. I walked in a main congregation hall, which was beautifully decorated with colorful woodwork. In the center of front wall was statue of Buddha in glass enclosure, along with photos of some monks and Dalai Lama on sides. The atmosphere was filled with fragrance of scented sticks and low-toned yet soothing chants. The ceiling was extended vertically in the center, with a large and incredibly beautiful chandelier hanging from the top. Walls around the chandelier were made of glass windows, and the evening sunlight coming from there was making it glow.

I continued struggling to take photographs as I wasn’t carrying my tripod (I didn’t want to use flash as I had marked it as code of behavior in gompas), Some idiots were standing in front of Buddha statue and taking their photographs… with flash on. Another curious photographer noticed that I was taking shots without flash and approached me. I explained him the reason behind it and he seemed bit flustered. Apparently, he had taken couple of shots with flash when he entered the chamber. He then asked, if there is any a rule or warning written anywhere which he might have missed. Frankly, there was none such written instruction or warning, at least not in all places. In some places there is explicitly written notice to not to use flash, as the light from flashes degrades the quality of frescos on wall over the year. It was more problematic in earlier days of photography, when exploding blub/flash powder was used to take photographs. The chemical residue from those flashes would accumulate on walls, ruining the colors of paintings and sculptures. Since then, monasteries (most of them) made it a point to notify the photographers. As I generally prefer to avoid flash and then with this newfound knowledge, I had sort of marked it in my mind, not to use flash; a written notice or not.

When I returned, Maggi and Jaimin were through with their shopping… or at least one part of it (apparently only half of the list). We then hit couple of book stores to check some interesting materials on Ladakh. Prateek and girls were shopping in another area, so we all decided to meet at some Dhaba Prateek had suggested. On the dining table, we discussed our further plans. Neerja and Prateek were leaving in the night, by road. Nupoor was taking flight in the morning, as per earlier plans. Meanwhile, the girls were busy checking out each other’s shopping (including Jaimin). Prateek and I, were throwing our wise remarks and enjoying teasing the girls. As it were, this was our last dinner together in this trip.

We returned to our guesthouse. Everyone was awake till late, to bid adieu to the departing ones. While the girls were busy packing their stuff, me, Maggi and Prateek sat in Maggi’s room, chatting. Prateek wanted to transfer few songs on his mp3 player, for road. Jaimin decided to take a quick nap, instructing me to wake him up when Prateek leaves. As much as three of us were excited for Tso-moriri trip, we were bit upset about the whole group-breaking-up thing… as we all have had great time together in last few days. Prateek and Neerja, left around 1:00 as their pickup van came. We all said goodbye to each other and went off to bed. The next day, was going to be a different day, for a different journey and experience.

Related videos from Maggi’s youtube channel:

Next : Ladakh Chronicles, part 8 – Tso Moriri

Tags: Chamkhang, clerestory, congregation hall, dancers, deities, Dhayni Buddha, Dukhang, Dukhang Chemo, festival, flash photography, gompa, Gonkhang, Guru Rimpoche, Hemis, Ladakh, Leh, Leh Palace, lotus, Maitreya Buddha, monastery, monks, prayer chamber, Sakyamuni Buddha, sculptures, Shey palace, Soma Gompa, Thikse, Tsechu, Tsongkhapa, yab-yum, Yamantaka
Posted in Travel | Comments (0)

Leave a Reply

Name (required)

Mail (required) [will not be published]

Website

© 2012 Where The Streets Have No Name
Original design/concept by DemusDesign | Customized version of Choice theme by Theme Lab. Powered by WordPress